Code of Ethics
We are concerned with the future of this wonderful breed and it's current welfare.
We will abide to the following moral code of ethics:
improvement in the breed will be seen.
2) To produce quality and not quantity ... we will never be considered a "puppy
3) To breed only for loving, forever homes and not for any type of business for
the purpose of "resale"
4) To be honest and open with all about our puppies ... offering support before,
during and after the purchase.
5) To provide the new owner with current, accurate records regarding the sale
of each and every puppy, including a pedigree, medical records, health
exam by our vet, contract and bill of sale.
Is Your Home Ready for a New Puppy?
Although puppy proofing your home for your new bloodhound puppy is very much like puppy proofing for a small breed, there are some very definite differences. First, consider the pup's size! A small breed can reach anything at floor level and can clear off the coffee table in a few weeks. In a short time your little puppy will learn to climb onto your bed and couch. Then consider what size your puppy will reach at six months and what he/she will be able to reach and also demolish!
Now consider that bloodhound puppy you are getting ready to bring home. At 8 weeks the puppy will weigh about 20 pounds; at 12 weeks around 25 - 35 pounds and by 4 months, the puppy will weigh between 40 - 50 pounds. Now imagine what an animal of this size with the brain of a small puppy can reach and destroy! The safest thing to do is to suspend everything in your home six feet off the floor and leave it there until your bloodhound puppy gets his/her adult brain, which will be between 1 1/2 and 3 years of age! Since this is not a very practical solution to the puppy problem, we have to remember that anything our puppy can reach is fair game in his or her eyes. We are the responsible party and must keep harmful items (especially those that are dear to us) out of reach of our new pup's eager, exploring mouth!
It is best to begin puppy proofing well in advance of the big arrival day, so begin to see your house through the prospective newcomer's eyes . . what are the things a puppy will find most inviting?? If this is not your first experience with a new puppy, think back to those previous puppy hoods and remember the things you lost to those inquisitive little guys. It would be best to go room to room (including the garage and yard), looking for hazards and items that need to be put in a higher spot. The first thing to look for are hazardous and dangerous materials. A spot of anti-freeze that has dripped onto the garage floor can kill a puppy who licks it up; many household chemicals and cleaning products are hazardous, even health and beauty products can be hazardous if ingested in large quantities. Be sure to keep medication bottles out of the puppy's reach - high up on shelves or in closed cabinets and most importantly in proper containers. Also look at electrical cords and outlets, you remove them all off the floor, but puppies have to be watched closely to be sure they don't chew the cords. We would recommend your spray an anti-chew product on them regularly (there are several brands on the marketplace) and be sure that they are unplugged prior to spraying! Did you know that a dog can get nicotine poisoning from eating butts out of ashtrays or off the ground ... keep them picked up! A bloodhound can strike a non-safety match by biting on the tip . . so please be sure they are always up and out of his reach. Plastic bags or Walmart bags can cause suffocation - think of your puppy like a toddler; what is dangerous to one is dangerous to the other.
Look for items that are easily chewed such as plastic, fringed rugs, books, shoes or other leather items, decorative items made of wood or fabric, baskets, throw pillows and children's toys. Watch for scarves and tablecloths that hang down and make tempting pull toys for your puppy.
Many plants, both indoor and out, can be toxic to pets. A few of them include ivy leaves, lily of the valley, daffodils, poisettia leaves, mistletoe and rhubarb, even the bark of some trees can be toxic if chewed. You may want to print out a listing from the internet as a reference and be sure to keep the poison control hotline number where you can find it in an emergency.
Look for physical dangers outdoors. Sharp metal, broken glass, barbed wire and sharp tools can cause serious injury. Small rocks and gravel can be swallowed, leading to death. Puppy proof your fences by plugging up holes and filling in low area where the puppy could crawl under. Bloodhounds love to dig, so be prepared to fill in holes or replant that beautiful flower garden!
The pup's toys can also be a source of danger. Be sure that stuffed animals don't have eyes or noses that can be chewed off and swallowed. Vinyl or plastic dog toys can be ripped to shreds and the small pieces swallowed. The most important thing to remember is that all toys should be size appropriate - a small ball lodged in the throat will block the pup's air passage. Throw toys away on a regular basis, when they become tattered or worn from chewing.
After you have removed, raised up and closed up everything that you think your puppy will likely go after or get into and destroy, you will probably learn from experience that you missed something or that you got alittle careless and forgot to put something out of reach. Maybe you forgot to close the closet door or left your purse unzipped - we are only human! You have to expect that an animal as curious as a bloodhound puppy is sure to outwit you sometimes, so just keep your sense of humor, you will need it!
The best way to keep your puppy from being destructive is to use a crate. When you leave home or you are not able to keep a constant eye on the puppy, crate him or her. This not only aids in housebreaking, but keeps the curious scamp out of trouble! Put a chewie or a favorite toy in the crate and be prepared ... the toy, the blanket and the crate pad may all be destroyed when you come back!
Puppy proofing is not a one time effort - keeping your puppy and your house safe and undamaged requires constant vigilance. It only takes one mistake to seriously injure or kill that wonderful bloodhound puppy.
- - - but I just wanted a pet!!!!
Let's start at the beginning. A breeder buys a quality bitch from another ethical and responsible breeder ($1,600). It will be at least two years before she can be bred. To socialize the puppy in obedience and handling classes is going to cost money, at minimum one six-week puppy obedience session ($85) and two eight-week handling class sessions over a two year period ($180). The breeder will house her and feed her a quality diet perhaps with supplements, for two years ($1,600), provide routine vet care including vaccinations assuming no injury or illness ($300), flea, tick, heartworm prevention ($300). I and many other Bloodhound breeders choose to do a prophylactic gastropexy in hopes of preventing gastric torsion ($400). The breeder will then show the bitch to her championship - if owner - handled about $2,500 with travel expenses and entry fees. If other titles are desired, add extra cost for travel, training, and a pet sitter for your other animals. These are bare bones estimates. Where are we now ... $6,765. If a professional handler is employed, add that expense.
Responsible breeders do health clearances on breeding animals at around two years of age. This can be a worrisome time as health clearances aren't always passed, you're at least $6,765 in the hole, not to mention the emotional drain of loving this puppy and the disappointed hopes and dreams.
At a minimum, in Bloodhounds, health certifications should be done on the heart, preferably with Doppler echocardiogram ($185-$400), hips and elbows ($400 together), and DNA test for Degenerative Myelopathy ($65). If you choose to test thyroid, that is $185, and an eye examination by a CERF ophthalmologist is $75-$200, totaling $1,250 for certifications. Now we're at $8,015. I'm scaring myself as I write this article!
If we are lucky enough that this bitch passes clearances and we deem her appropriate for our breeding program, countless hours are spent researching what stud dog to use, pedigrees, and health clearances of other dogs in those pedigrees. A stud dog is chosen with a stud fee arranged ($1,500). We're ready to go, let's do this!
Our bitch comes in season, and we do progesterone testing to find the optimal day to breed. We've had a pre-pregnancy consultation with our repro vet ($120), brucellosis test ($100), and sometimes pre-breeding bloodwork ($80). In the course of her season, about four progesterone tests are pulled to confirm when ovulation happened ($86 each – totally probably $344). We've traveled to the sire ($175), very graciously accepting the invite of his owners to stay with them for the breeding. We've brought artificial insemination supplies in case the job can't get done naturally ($30), plus semen extender in case there isn't enough volume collected from the sire ($50), additional cost if a vet is needed. The job is done, now the seemingly endless wait begins. At this point, we have spent $10,374 and haven't confirmed a pregnancy!
**Written by Molly Nye (M&M Bloodhounds, ABC National Breed Referral Coordinator)
What do your puppies cost . . .
You are now wondering, I am sure, what do these people charge for their puppies - they have given us lots of information but not the cost . . . well we don't feel that is the most important part of the search for you as the puppy owner, but we do understand that we must cover our expenses or we won't be able to continue to breed these wonderful little guys.
We ask $1,600 for our babies and for this we give you more than just a bloodhound puppy, raised until it is 9 weeks old . . . we have been with this puppy since it was born, giving it more attention than our family! We also include the spay or neuter at 8 weeks of age, we cover the AKC registration fees which continue to go up each year, they are micro-chipped and we cover the lifetime protection should they ever find a way to get away from you, the three vet visits here at our facility, they are current on all shots, we do charge you for the sales tax that the State of Missouri requires we charge, we send you home with a puppy packet which has a record of their weights each day until they are 2 weeks old - then we weigh them weekly and the dates of their worming and shots along with a list of when their next shots should be given, sample of dog food that they are currently eating, their first toy and whatever else we can come up with to help you get started on the right path. Plus we will always be here to help you raise your new family member.
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